What Makes Edelweiss Oxygen Ii Unicore Stand Out?
The Edelweiss Oxygen Ii Unicore 8.2mm half rope promises a featherlight feel without sacrificing the bite needed to catch a fall. Marketed as a top-tier option for climbers seeking a blend of low weight and high performance, it touts features like HD Cover, Supereverdry treatment, and the innovative Unicore Process. Edelweiss aims to deliver a rope that handles well, resists abrasion and water, and provides a secure climbing experience.
I was looking for a lightweight half rope for alpine climbing and mountaineering. The goal was to reduce pack weight without compromising safety. The Edelweiss Oxygen Ii Unicore’s specifications, particularly its low weight of 45 g/m and low impact force, caught my attention.
The rope arrived neatly coiled. The HD Cover felt immediately different – smoother and more tightly woven than other ropes I’ve handled. Its lightweight nature was immediately apparent.
I considered the Beal Opera 8.5mm and the Petzl Volta Guide 9.0mm. The Edelweiss Oxygen Ii Unicore won out due to its lighter weight and lower impact force, features crucial for demanding alpine ascents where every gram counts. The Beal was a close contender, but the Edelweiss rope just felt more premium right out of the package.
Initially, I was excited. This rope seemed to perfectly address my need for a lightweight yet durable half rope for technical climbing. I was eager to get it out on the rock and ice to see if it lived up to the hype.
Real-World Testing: Putting Edelweiss Oxygen Ii Unicore to the Test
First Use Experience
I first tested the Edelweiss Oxygen Ii Unicore on a multi-pitch ice climb in the Canadian Rockies. The conditions were brutally cold with temperatures hovering around -15°C. We were climbing a WI4 route with some mixed sections.
The rope handled surprisingly well in the cold. The Supereverdry treatment seemed to be doing its job, as the rope didn’t stiffen up or absorb excessive water despite the melting ice. Its low impact force was noticeable when taking small falls on the mixed sections; the rope felt forgiving.
The rope felt different than what I was used to. It took a few pitches to become accustomed to its thin diameter and the way it ran through belay devices. I had to adjust my technique slightly to avoid excessive slippage.
After the first climb, I noticed a few fuzzies on the sheath, but nothing major. Overall, I was impressed with its initial performance.
Extended Use & Reliability
After a season of use, including both ice and rock climbing, the Edelweiss Oxygen Ii Unicore has held up reasonably well. The sheath shows some signs of wear, especially in areas where it frequently rubs against rock edges. The HD Cover has helped minimize damage, but it’s not indestructible.
There are some minor fuzzies that needed trimming. The rope still feels supple and handles well, but I anticipate it will need replacing sooner than a thicker, more robust rope. I clean the rope every few climbs with rope wash to maintain its performance.
Compared to my previous half ropes (typically 9mm or thicker), the Edelweiss Oxygen Ii Unicore is noticeably lighter and easier to handle. However, it doesn’t offer the same level of abrasion resistance or longevity. I am pleased with its balance of weight and performance.
Breaking Down the Features of Edelweiss Oxygen Ii Unicore
Specifications
- Weight: 45 g/m – This incredibly low weight significantly reduces pack weight and rope drag, making it ideal for long alpine routes.
- Impact Force: 5.5kN – The low impact force provides a softer catch, reducing stress on both the climber and the protection.
- UIAA Falls: 7 – This indicates the rope’s ability to withstand repeated falls in a controlled laboratory setting.
- SE = Supereverdry: This treatment ensures the rope resists water absorption, maintaining performance in wet conditions.
- Unicore Process: This bonds the sheath and core, preventing sheath slippage and enhancing safety.
- CE and UIAA Certified – Half Rope: This certification confirms the rope meets international safety standards for half ropes.
These specifications translate to a rope that is exceptionally lightweight, offers a forgiving catch, and is relatively resistant to water damage. The Unicore Process gives added security. These are all important for serious climbers.
Performance & Functionality
The Edelweiss Oxygen Ii Unicore performs admirably as a lightweight half rope. Its low impact force makes for comfortable falls, and the handling is generally excellent.
Its thin diameter requires some getting used to with certain belay devices, and its long-term durability is a concern. Overall, the rope meets my expectations for a specialized lightweight rope.
Design & Ergonomics
The build quality of the Edelweiss Oxygen Ii Unicore is generally good. The rope feels well-made and the HD Cover contributes to a smooth, supple feel.
There is a slight learning curve due to its thin diameter. Familiarizing yourself with appropriate belay techniques and devices is recommended.
Durability & Maintenance
The rope is thinner than most of my half ropes. I anticipate it will wear more quickly than thicker ropes.
Cleaning with rope wash and avoiding unnecessary abrasion are key to prolonging its lifespan. Regular inspection for damage is also vital.
Accessories and Customization Options
The Edelweiss Oxygen Ii Unicore comes as a standalone rope. There are no included accessories.
This rope doesn’t lend itself to significant customization. Focus on proper belay devices and rope management techniques to maximize its performance and lifespan.
Pros and Cons of Edelweiss Oxygen Ii Unicore
Pros
- Incredibly lightweight: The 45 g/m weight makes it ideal for alpine climbing and mountaineering.
- Low Impact Force: The 5.5kN impact force provides a softer catch, reducing stress on climber and gear.
- Supereverdry Treatment: Keeps the rope dry and manageable in wet conditions.
- Unicore Process: Enhances safety by preventing sheath slippage.
- Smooth Handling: The HD Cover ensures smooth passage through belay devices and protection.
Cons
- Reduced Durability: Its thin diameter makes it more susceptible to abrasion than thicker ropes.
- Requires Technique Adjustment: The thin diameter requires a different belay technique than what you are used to.
- Pricey: This is an expensive rope.
Who Should Buy Edelweiss Oxygen Ii Unicore?
The Edelweiss Oxygen Ii Unicore is perfect for experienced alpine climbers, mountaineers, and ice climbers who prioritize weight savings and performance. It’s ideal for multi-pitch routes where every gram counts.
This rope is not suitable for beginners or those who frequently climb in abrasive environments. Those seeking maximum durability should opt for a thicker rope.
A lightweight belay device designed for thin ropes is a must-have accessory. Also, a rope bag will help protect it from dirt and abrasion.
Conclusion on Edelweiss Oxygen Ii Unicore
The Edelweiss Oxygen Ii Unicore is a specialized half rope that excels in lightweight performance and handling. It is very expensive.
Its low impact force, smooth handling, and water resistance make it a valuable tool for demanding alpine objectives. While its durability is a concern, the performance benefits outweigh this drawback for experienced climbers who understand its limitations.
I would recommend the Edelweiss Oxygen Ii Unicore to experienced climbers seeking a high-performance, lightweight half rope. Be prepared to adjust your belay technique and take extra care to protect it from abrasion. Consider investing in this rope if you’re prioritizing weight savings and a soft catch on your next alpine adventure.